公子飯堂 — 季節的故事‧香魚

去年好友在大阪行和式婚禮,囍宴過後一行人去京都賞紅葉,中途站是造訪高台寺的《米芝蓮》二星懷石料理亭「和久傳」,一嚐期待已久的季節料理。時隔一年,想不到 IFC 的「四季菊」邀請了主理人藤山貴朗先生來港,作為時七日的客籍主廚,以關西的仲夏名產香魚、鱧魚為主題的期間限定料理。 「和久傳」最為人印象深刻的,莫過於以炭爐在客人面前烹製炭燒味食,去年在本店正值松葉蟹當造,料理人「解蟹」後,弄出的炭燒松葉蟹的長腳至今仍津津樂道;為保留本店的風味,藤山先生竟然把專用的炭爐帶來,製作炭火烤香魚。吃香魚的文化古已有之,在一代美食家北大路魯山人的回憶中,是他人生中難忘的季節真味之一,往時物流不如現今般發達,在東京工作的他為了回味香魚獨特香氣,要坐火車回關西的家鄉,在川溪旁的料理亭才能吃到鮮活香魚,我們現代人比他幸福多了,遠在萬里之外,亦能吃質素甚佳的季節食材,據說香魚品種甚多,今次主理人帶來的是身形較為豐潤貨色,席上笑說在當地也鮮見如此肥美之物。 欣賞香魚的態度因人而異,我喜歡牠的原因非為魚肉本身,而是魚腹內臟獨特的回甘味道,如若榴槤一旦愛上的話會吃不停口,因此就連怕哽骨的日本,料理此物時亦堅持連骨烹調,為的是保留這份珍味。 [...]

公子飯堂 — 牛匠與斧頭扒

戰後百業蕭條,對普羅大眾而言,「鋸扒」顯然是有錢人的奢侈玩意。直至七、八十年代後才出現華人經營的正規扒房,當中的「樂意扒房」可說是元祖老店。當年由楊氏四兄弟經營,仗著地利之宜,美國海軍到訪必定會到餐廳「朝聖」,水兵贈給主人家的木盾甚至船舵,相信已成長者們的「集體回憶」。 當飲食記者時,造訪由「牛匠」William 掌管的廚房,入廚逾半世紀的他,對於烹調牛扒的觸覺異常敏銳,說好要8安士的西冷扒,手起刀落,重量不多不少恰如其分,行家說他是「人肉電子磅」,說到他烤牛扒技術,近十年新式扒房興起,名廚輩出,對烤爐設計甚為講究,他與兒子 Wilson 一直以來用沒有溫度控制的「土炮」扒爐,卻能做出水準媲美數十萬一組的科技化烤爐。 廚房內 William 是廚藝高手,「樂意扒房」光榮結業後,他的兒子開設了「Mr Tomahawk」,而他則退居幕後主理樓面,經歷戰後與回歸的老人家,是位活字典,在讀者飯局分享會上,請教關於近年流行先烤後焗的與傳統明火「生烤」利弊,心存厚德的他不為沿用多年老派手藝說項,反而跟我們細味昔日扒房變化的沿革。 據說以煤氣行明火烤扒的風尚,為七十年代「Hugo」所掀起,昔日煤氣網絡不如現今廣泛,在此前普遍扒房都以炭火烤箱作烤焗,加上老香江吃扒的習慣與現代人南轅北轍,吃生是禁忌,因此焗牛扒就非我們所嚐般「嫩口」,甚至一些高級扒房,會有餐車在客人面前堂弄煎扒。記得有一回為好友慶生的晚飯上,試了一口即煎「火焰黑椒牛柳」,味道雖然談不上驚為天人,卻充滿著港英時期的「豉油扒房」回憶。 對於喜歡「樂意扒房」的朋友們,那一夜兩位主理人為我們安排城中獨家的「堂弄韃靼牛肉」、「堂弄火焰班戟」,與及明火生烤的斧頭扒,由第二代主理的新店,仍保留著一份昔日情懷。 Mr Tomahawk Member of [...]

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